On a tumultuously humid afternoon in Sanur, I’m wrapped in the smell of fish, the ocean, and my own sweat. The fatigue of a long flight sits heavy, an in-between feeling, neither entirely pleasant nor unpleasant, but edged with quiet excitement. “Welcome to Sanur,” the woman at check-in says, placing a chilled drink in my hands. It’s made with passion fruit. I take a sip—sweet, sour,...